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Thousands of
Muslim Pilgrims Flock to Touba
"Work on earth as if you
will never die and obey the divine rules as if you were going to die immediately",
taught 19th century Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba Mbacké of Senegal who established the
Islamic Mouride Brotherhood. Today hundreds of thousands of Muslims converge on
Touba, the city of Islam founded by Sheikh Mbacké, to mark the 106th
anniversary of his exile by the French colonial government.
Oumar Dieng, Panafrican News Agency (Dakar, Senegal), May 12,
2001
Hundreds of thousands of Muslims from Senegal and abroad have converged on
the holy city of Touba, 200 km from Dakar, for the 106th commemoration of the
departure of Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba Mbacké into exile.
The founder of the Mouride brotherhood was forced to go in exile in Gabon by
colonial rulers on 20 September 1895.
Commonly known as "magal" (pay tribute, celebrate, magnify in the
local African Wolof language), the annual religious gathering in Touba, which
took place early Saturday, is considered as an occasion for thanksgiving to
Allah the Almighty.
"Mouridism" may be defined as an aspiration to Allah the Almighty (Mouridoulahi)
in accordance with the prophet's message.
In one of his numerous writings, 'Matlabul Fawzeyni' (the quest for happiness
in both worlds), Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba describes the purpose of the city which he
founded in 1887. In his concept, Touba should reconcile the spiritual and the
temporal.
Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba intended to have the spiritual capital of his
brotherhood showing all the characteristics of a Muslim city. The search for
knowledge and economic prosperity, in accordance with Mouridism doctrine, are of
utmost importance.
In his lifetime, the Sheikh recommended to his disciples "to work on
earth as if they will never die and obey the divine rules as if they were going
to die immediately".
Touba, which under normal circumstances has a population of one million, is
now hosting close to three million pilgrims from all corners of Senegal and
neighbouring countries, as well as immigrant workers based in Europe and
America.
In the early years of independence, the holy city was a small town in the
middle of a dense forest. Today it has all the facilities found in major cities
-- banks, telecommunications, water, electricity and, of course, commercial
activities.
A special power line was recently installed by the national electricity
company to step up supply. Special arrangements were also made to ensure
adequate water is available from the city taps.
Banks and institutions specialised in money transfers abound in the city
which occupies a key position in the Senegalese economy, thanks to the Mouride
followers' devotion to work.
Its impressive mosque, covered with marble, shelters the mausoleum of the
spiritual guide, whose sermons, poems sang in the glory of God and the Prophet
of Islam and his behaviour during his lifetime, are recited by his followers
daily.
This place of worship, the most impressive of sub-Saharan Africa, cost
billions of CFA francs. It is the symbol as well as the centre of gravity of the
holy city. The great library which has thousands of religious, scientific and
Arab grammar books, is visited by researchers from all over the world.
In addition to the hundreds of books and poems written by the Sheikh, the
visitor will find books on various sectors such as jurisprudence, theology,
Sufism and education in this major research centre.
Mouridism advocated and taught by Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba is a set of religious
practices and a code of conduct based on the teachings of the Prophet Mouhammad.
The problems the holy man had with the local authorities led to his arrest in
August 1895.
After his trial by the private council in the office of the governor of
French West Africa, he was exiled to Gabon on 20 September 1895 on board the
ship 'Ville de Pernambouc'. He remained in spiritual retreat in the central
African country for seven years and seven months.
The date of this deportation which, contrary to the colonisers' plans,
enabled the Sheikh to have the time he needed to devote himself to his favourite
passion: singing praises to the grace of God and his Prophet, is commemorated by
the Mourides every year.
The Sheikh returned to his native land and his family in November 1902 on
board the ship 'Ville de Maceo'.
Summoned once again to Saint Louis, Senegal, by the governor, he
categorically refused to go there saying: "I am a captive of God and do not
recognise any other authority but Him".
Another expedition was launched against the religious guide. He was again
deported in June 1903 to Mauritania where he spent four years. On his return to
Senegal, he was kept under house arrest in Diourbel (central Senegal) until his
death.
The colonisers who had difficulty concealing their fear of the determination
and extraordinary fascination that this non- violent, frail and peaceful man had
on the population, ended up recognising his merit and even offered him a
decoration which he declined.
Sheikh Ahmadou Bamba, died in Diourbel in 1927 and was buried in Touba.
His holy city, where he had the privilege of residing only after his death,
has become too small to receive millions of pilgrims every year.
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