Delicious Sweets and Festive Mood Make Damascus Different in Ramadan
Ellen Feris, Deutsche Presse-Agentur, September 27, 2006

DAMASCUS, 27 September 2006 — Damascus takes on a special atmosphere during Ramadan as residents across the city adorn their balconies with special lights and Islamic symbols, and the smell of foods not sold at other times of the years is wafting from the markets in the city.

Syrians began fasting on Sunday, unlike other Muslim countries where the fasting began on Saturday in observance of Ramadan.

However — paradoxically in this month of restrictions — Syrian markets also witness unmatchable jams and delicacies, and people line up at the shops that sell the finest Damascene sweets.

“Our factory works 24 hours a day during Ramadan and our shops work for 20 hours to meet the clients’ needs,” said Mohammed Nafissah, the head of a famous sweet shop which has many branches in the capital.

Most popular with the customers during Ramadan is Nahesh, a famous Damascene sweet made of dough and cream, he says. “Our sales in Ramadan triple those of the rest of the year,” he said.

The old Al-Bzourrya market, which is known for its spices and dried fruits, has been packed with people buying the specialties that are only on sale during Ramadan, says Abdul-Latiff Bendkji, one of the merchants.

“I am extremely delighted when Ramadan is coming,” says Wafaa, Mohammad, 40, while shopping the market, adding: “My family will gather around one table and break fast at the same time.”

Five-star hotels have also started preparations, and Damascene tents have been erected to create an old Damascene atmosphere and the right surroundings for the feasts that follow the daily fasts.

Another tradition among Syrians during Ramadan is to go to coffee houses, smoke hubble-bubble — the water pipe — and listen to the so-called Al-Hakawati, a storyteller.

The Al-Nofara Cafe, one of Syria’s oldest and most famous, is usually filled with noisy chatter and music during the long Ramadan nights.

And every evening after the iftar, the fast-breaking meal, Rashid Hallak, also known as Abu Shadi takes his place on a tall chair in the cafe to begin his story, holding a 100-strong audience captive as he tells of Antara, a legendary black slave snubbed for his color but renowned for his courage, strength and chivalry.

During Ramadan, however, Abu Shadi says, he does not spin out his stories quite as long as he believes the audience could not bear to come daily to follow up on the latest adventure of Antara.

For most Muslims, the foundation of Ramadan is a spiritual experience; with some describing it as a time for purifying the soul and taking the opportunity to spend time with family and friends, to eat together and pray together.

Muslims are required to pray five times a day throughout the year, and during Ramadan these obligations are followed more closely. Most Syrians, including women, attend mosques for additional prayers, the Tarawih.

In Syria, Ramadan tradition also demands that all family members gather at the house of the oldest relative on the first day of the month where they eat the iftar together.

The iftar table will be colored with all types of Damascene foods especially juices and dates.

Although a fading tradition, the night ends with the call of the “Msaharati,” the public waker, who wakes people for their “sahoor” meal — the last food before dawn when the fasting starts again.

Msaharati Amin Mozeh, who works as a civil servant at Teshrin newspaper, says this is his favorite hobby. Every year he longs for Ramadan to perform the task of awaking people, which he inherited from his grandfather forty years ago, he tells DPA.

The Msaharati usually leaves his house after midnight and walks through the old quarters of Damascus chanting “Oh sleepers, wake up and pray for God!”

Ramadan marks the time when the Holy Qur’an was revealed to the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh). The Qur’an calls for self-restraint during this time to experience hunger and thirst and feel the need of other people.

Sheikh Salah Keftaro, who heads the Ahmed Keftaro Foundation for Islamic Studies, says charity works increase remarkably during Ramadan. Syrians “witness a religious, social and humanitarian wedding,” he calls it.

Following instructions by the ministry for religious affairs, free iftar meals are also offered for the poor at the Omayyad Mosque. “This gives us a feeling that we are one family,” says the sheikh.